Held every Sunday in the district of Marvila, somewhat near the airport, the Feira do Relogio is Lisbon's biggest market. With mostly clothes and food on offer, this is shopping for locals, and not the kind of flea market where you're going to find charming old antiques. But if you want to see a different, boisterous side of Lisboan life, it's great fun.
When Lisboans want to shop, they head to the neighborhood of Chiado, found between Baixa and Bairro Alto. This upscale "middle ground" is known for its historic shops, churches and theaters. Braced for madness, we explored it on a sunny Saturday, two weeks before Christmas.